Surf Park Book: Preview #1

I'm writing a book 🤓 because you won't believe what's happening in the surf industry until you see it, so here's your front row seat.

Last night I watched Chasing Mavericks for the first time. It’s a staple in the surf world that I avoided up until now because it looked cheesy as hell. But I was too quick to judge. After my friend told me to put it I proceeded to tune him out as I got sucked in to the true story of Jay Moriarity’s life. Jay became obsessed with Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous waves in the world. At the age of 15 he learned to surf it.

Jay’s mentor, Frosty, taught him the “four pillars of the human foundation” to prepare to surf Mavericks: physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual. Surfing has pulled me into these pillars like nothing else has so it’s no surprise that I decided to spend my time out of the water writing a book about surfing. Exercising the mental pillar.

This book is specifically about surf parks because they are kind of like my Mavericks. (More on that in an upcoming post).